~by Karl Zarling AHHH, FIREPLACES - Gosh, how we love them. If only they worked better. This is the story of a fella known as Count Rumford, who was presumably at some point...cold. Sometime in the late 1700’s, which feels like a cold time to me. He believed fireplaces could work better, and he decided to do something about it. Most of us in the U.S. never got the memo describing how to make a natural, wood burning fireplace that works well, but luckily for you, here at DAM we did get that memo, and we’d like to tell you a little about it. You want to know the secret to building a toasty and efficient fireplace? Read on, chilly friends. Quick ground rules - before any of you get all worked up and ALL CAPSY AND RUN ON SENTENCEY (this is the Internet after all), let’s make a few things clear: I am not here to debate the economic virtue or efficiency merits of an open, natural fireplace versus something like a modern, efficient woodstove, or an insert, or gas burner, or pellet stove, or how dumb I am and how much smarter any of those things are. If you’re thinking about going there, let’s just agree that a high-efficiency gas furnace beats all of those options, if we’re purely talking heating efficiency. Note that I am not including masonry heaters in that mix as they are a whole different animal, and shall be covered on another day. The point is that there are many here among us - including myself - that just like fireplaces, natural wood burners, with no doors in the way, or blowers, or any other mechanical magic. The fire is magic enough. And we believe there’s a better way to build fireplaces. Are we good here? Excellent. Moving on. Per Wikipedia - so it must be true - this Count Rumford fella was actually born Benjamin Thompson, in Woburn, Massachusetts. He’s regarded as a physicist (though barbers kinda were, too), and a scientist, and inventor, among other things. Props: he’s got a moon crater named after him. Now, he didn’t necessarily get everything right, and there were assertions he’d made that were proven to be incorrect. Mostly it seems like Thompson/Rumford liked to turn conventional beliefs upside down and explore possibilities that others had dismissed or were just not curious enough to care about. For this he ranks high on my Informal List of Dudes, and deserves to be called Count Something, anyway. And some of what he did get right had to do with heat. We’re going to focus on Rumford’s fireplace observations, beliefs, and designs, and from here forward I’ll refer to this general kind of fireplace design as a ‘Rumford’. HOW IT’S USUALLY DONE - Here’s a mental picture of how modern or conventional (NOT Rumford) fireplaces are mostly built in the U.S. They generally begin with an overly big, deep firebox - the part you place the wood in, where it actually burns. Unlike a lot of timber-light regions of Europe back in the day, the U.S. has largely enjoyed a relative abundance of burnable wood, so by goodness we like our fires big, which means a huge firebox. Which as an aside can look awfully silly when we don’t have a massive fire burning...so we’re really just wasting wood now, but more on this later. Then this thing called a smoke shelf is built above the firebox, typically along with a bottom mounted damper. These modern fireplaces often don’t draw very well, and usually don’t heat well, either. Sure, they look pretty, and hopefully smell good, and that’s great. Again, if we were after purely heating efficiency or safety we most certainly wouldn’t cut a hole in our roofs and build a fire right there in the middle of our living room, nevermind all the problems this intentional hole in our roofs can cause (again, another discussion). Nonetheless, we can still try and do better at these, right? As I said, I love fire, and fireplaces. There’s something primal about fire; it’s mesmerizing, satisfying, calming, sexy, the whole deal. The fireplace, the surround, and chimney all add aesthetic interest and appeal to a home, and they can absolutely improve a home’s salability. THE RUMFORD WAY - So how’s a Rumford better? Here are a few big pluses: 1) a smooth ‘throat’, designed to improve draw up the chimney, 2) angled side/back walls, which provide more reflection of radiant heat, directing it out toward people and the room, and 3) overall more warmth using fewer burning logs, while still producing lots of beautiful flame. THE THROAT - The smooth throat is nothing like the ‘smoke shelf’ approach. Rumford’s feeling was that the best way to get smoke moving up and out of the stack was to remove anything in the path that would impede it. Imagine turning a miniature fireplace upside down...and pouring water into it. Water flows cleanly through a smooth path. This is how Rumford designed his fireboxes, allowing smoke to smoothly exit vertically. The myth is that you just need to make the firebox deeper, to somehow make the smoke ‘stay in the back’ and go up the flue (and not into the room). It just doesn’t work that way. Part of the problem is the hoops the smoke has to jump through to actually get up and get out of there, and the way it swirls and mixes along the way. *Note that how a chimney ‘draws’ - how well/easily smoke rises and gets out the stack - also has everything to do with building pressurization and ‘make up air’. Suffice it to say that modern, tight houses can present challenges to fireplace draw, as do other factors, if the stack is on an outside wall, or centrally located in a home, relative chimney height, lots of variables...which we’ll also have to cover in another article! **One more, related to the throat and lack of a smoke shelf, a quick note on dampers. When we are building a strictly wood burning fireplace/chimney, with no gas appliances in the firebox or even gas assist to light a fire, we generally recommend and install top mounted dampers. These are better sealing and therefore more energy efficient, and they do a better job of keeping critters and weather out of the chimney flue. However, when we have any gas lines running to a firebox, we recommend bottom mounted dampers. Building code requires that fireboxes that use gas lines have dampers that ALWAYS stay open at least slightly, to allow potential gas buildup to escape, and this is the easiest/safest way to ensure this. THE WALLS - Here’s the biggie, what I consider the real difference maker in Rumford design. So in modern fireboxes you’ve got this deep configuration, a horizontal box, with an iron grate at the bottom to hold a big pile of logs. What happens here, unfortunately, is nearly all of the heat from the fire goes right up the stack, and not into the room. Rumford fireplaces generally are more vertical...taller and sometimes narrower. They have a much narrower back wall, as the side walls are turned in at the rear to give them much more of an angle relative to the front. It’s this angle and the reflection produced that delivers radiant heat to you in front of the fireplace. I will vouch for this...these things throw off a remarkable amount of heat as compared to a traditional firebox. And the entire firebox is generally fairly shallow, which further helps bring the heat into the room and not up the chimney. FEWER LOGS - MORE HEAT - Also note that while you don’t have to do it this way, the intention with Rumford is to simply lean the logs on one another vertically, against the back wall. Some of our clients still like the look of iron grates, but these are really not necessary, and yes, you may stack logs horizontally, just like Dad always did it. But because the unit is more vertical in design to accommodate the logs in this way, more actual ‘flame’ is produced using fewer logs, producing more heat and eye candy while using less fuel (wood)! Fun fact: if we're really doing this right, we actually light this wood at the top. I know, the humanity, right? Seriously, google it. It burns cleaner and more fully, less ash, all good. OLD SCHOOL BEAUTY - These fireboxes are also really pretty, by the way...they’re not like a standard dark, sooty thing that looks terrible unless it’s burning. We have color options for the fire brick itself, and our masons are able to do different patterns, herringbone looks, and even combine multiple brick colors to your specification. Here's a photo of a conversion we did, from a conventional fireplace to this beautiful Rumford (and it doesn't hurt that the client made fantastic design selections with these gorgeous, custom stone legs and mantel). THE BULLET LISTS - Let’s take a moment to reflect upon and review a few Common Fireplace Bummers (CFBs), virtually ALL of which I’ve personally experienced, that are commonly solved by using a Rumford design:
IT GETS BETTER - Of course there’s more, but let’s clear our palettes of this Bummerplace (see what I did there) and hit the high notes of how life could be improved with a Rumford:
IN CLOSING - I hope this has been a helpful addition to your ‘all about fireplaces’ knowledge, and maybe it’s opened your eyes to the benefits of this terrific design, one that really only a small percentage of masons have much experience with. Dale Anderson Masonry has been learning and applying new and improved techniques to their work for decades, and in this case, it took a look in the rear view mirror to find a great solution for the future. Thanks for reading along, and as always, feel free to contact us to chat about your next masonry project.
51 Comments
SMith, Steven W.
1/6/2016 08:04:51 pm
I'm interested in a masonry heater for a small 1200 ft2 home in Racine. Do you travel or know of someone working in this field in Racine?
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DAM
1/22/2016 01:00:16 pm
Hi Steven. SO sorry for the very late reply; we weren't notified of your comment for some reason. Will reach out to you shortly.
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Clifford
6/20/2016 12:10:51 pm
I am going to build an outside fireplace if i do a Rumford design and i want the front to be four feet across how deep do i make it?
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Clifford
1/23/2017 11:39:20 am
Thanks Dam,
Robert
10/28/2016 05:23:08 am
Looks like your pics are backwards, Modern looks taller? ??? Ive been in the trade my whole life 4 generation mason and I don't buy into any of it,Sorry
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Hi Robert,
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Sumyungguy
11/9/2017 08:09:22 am
Lol that's because with your vast experience and knowledge of masonry you looked at the images depicting a bird's eye view of the firebox from the perspective of looking down the chimney and thought that the WIDTH of the "modern version" opening was the HEIGHT. Go look again. Hopefully if you have a 5th generation of masonry in your family tree, you teach it to be more observant and open minded of ideas and techniques that they haven't encountered . even the master of a trade, any trade, can learn something new regardless of the decades spent only doing the things you were taught. How many doctor's who practiced medicine for 50 years prior to 1950 thought cigarettes didn't do damage and morphine was perfectly ok to give a toddler for a cough?
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Chris Foley
12/16/2018 11:24:21 pm
Do stick to masonry as your social IQ is room temp. Have any friends?
tom
1/20/2017 11:50:05 pm
If you did a complete change over on an old fireplace would it mean replacing the entire flue?
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Hello Tom,
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tom satterlee
1/25/2017 11:40:05 pm
Hi and tthanks for the response:
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Hi Tom. In a word...maybe. Though it's hard to envision just how one would do that, both in terms of safety, and durability (and I'm talking about heat, and support, and the joints, which ultimately becomes about safety). When we change an old fireplace over, as I said, we totally remove everything 'in the way', to allow that brand new, smooth throat to be inserted, which attaches to the flue above it, and then we build the firebox itself from the bottom up to meet it. The new throat is what helps it draw properly, and to leave an old smoke shelf in there and try and work around it with new firebox dimensions...I see this being challenging, at best.
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Gary Zouzalik
4/28/2017 10:19:07 pm
I'm building an outdoor fireplace, I'm not a mason, but a very good carpenter and DIY guy. Instead of buying 6$ each for fire brick, I'm wondering if the red "Groesbeck" brick I have available (old ones from mother in law) would sub as "firebrick". I'm at critical stage in my build and need to get started on the fire box. I am in Cen Texas. Other red bricks I have say "Standard" stamped in them. Can you please help?
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Hi Gary,
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joanne
11/30/2017 02:48:43 pm
Curious to know how to what you do to insulate a 6 foot brick fireplace from the 20s. It seems that the brick conducts a rediculous amount of cold so that we don't even use the living room in the winter. It doesnt have a chiminey it just seems to have some vents in the wall like an upside down L when it was converted to gas. These have long ago been sealed but short of covering all the brick with something not sure what to do with it. It already juts into the living room about 13 inches.
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Hello Joanne. Yes, brick and stone that's exposed to the cold outdoors absolutely can and will transmit a whole lot of cold into a room. And certainly from that time period, it's not a stretch to imagine that the flashing surrounding the brick could be compromised or just poor all around (allowing heat out and cold in). If you're not using it, honestly, you might just consider getting a contractor/home improvement/remodeler person in there to remove it completely. There's nothing you're really going to do, in my opinion, to easily make that thing stop letting your heat out. And even if you were using the gas unit, the vast majority of older units are extremely inefficient, as well, so kind of a lose/lose at this point. Just my two cents! Good luck with it and thanks for your question.
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Greg
12/26/2017 04:23:21 pm
Question,
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Hi Greg,
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Sarah M
12/15/2022 10:32:54 pm
The Swedish kakelugn, the Russian stove (often with a bed on top!), and the Korean stove (built under the floor) are all amazing designs. Radiant heat can provide efficient warmth for quite some time. I have a 1960s house that had a 40 inch wide 24 inch tall fireplace, the typical deep box. On closer examination it looks like the lintel had been lowered by 4 to 6 inches probably in an attempt to make it stop smoking, but by the time you build a fire in it all the flame was behind the lintel. Neither warming nor attractive. I had the lintel raised back to the original height and decreased the size of the opening by adding two rows of firebrick on either side of the firebox and an additional role plus some backing insulation on the fire back. The opening is now 30 inches wide and 29 inches high. The problem is unless the fire is in the back half of the box it still smokes. I suspect that the biggest problem is the flue that is clay tile and approximately 8 x 12. The fireplace did not have an original damper and I put a chimney top swing damper on it. I suspect the solution is to have the flu size increased. Please share your thoughts and if possible a recommendation for a reliable Mason in the Mobile Alabama area
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Hello Mike,
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3/24/2018 09:19:25 am
Just tripped over this site and, besides being very funny, is a wealth of information. A little embarrassed but I'll share my story - I went cheap and had a beautiful outside stone fireplace put in on our house in North Carolina. Beautiful. Problem is, a massive, cinder block fire box. Draws beautifully, pretty to look at, but I didn't know what I was getting. Have a mason coming out Monday to shape the firebox and install firebrick. Can't wait. Thanks for this information.
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9/21/2018 04:12:35 pm
Read your comments on Rumford fireplace design.
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Hello Even,
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10/3/2018 06:08:12 am
Hello Dale I’m a 4th gen mason whom back when the book “ The Forgotten Art of Buiding a Good Fireplace by Vrest Orton” was published started building Slanted Rumfords.
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Karen Kautto
5/22/2019 05:56:03 am
GM Dam...although I don’t have an indoor fireplace I have enjoyed Rumford fireplaces in friends homes & they are everything you state. But I do have a chiminea on my deck & they are as useless for producing heat as are conventional fireplaces. I live in the upper peninsula of MI & I’m always on the hunt for ways to extend our short summer....I’m too stubborn to buy a propane heater with no ambiance...so after that long narrative on to my ? Could one convert a chiminea in the Rumford style to throw more heat?
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Hi Karen,
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6/14/2019 12:47:43 pm
It's good to know that a narrower fireplace will send more heat out into the room. My wife and I have been looking for a way to change our fireplace so that it heats our house more, and this might be just the way to do that. We'll be looking further into our options for changing up our fireplace in the future.
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Hi Thomas,
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7/2/2019 11:05:10 am
I didn't know that a flue liner helps to emit gases and smoke from the inside of the chimney. My parents live in a house that was built in the 30s. This important fact will be pass to my father, so he can contact an expert for help
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7/31/2019 03:57:30 pm
Thanks for the fireplace tips. I would really like to have a wood-burning fireplace. I get very cold in the winter.
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8/9/2019 03:33:15 am
Excellent explanation, it’s simple & focus plus Brief and Direct to the point.
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Andrew K Mixer
11/6/2019 08:40:34 pm
Many "Rumford" designs I've seen have a box with an angled back, pitched towards the room about half way up to the damper and smoke shelf.
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Hi Andrew,
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Philip Walden
12/4/2020 08:54:39 pm
I just had a fireplace built in my log home having a problem with it cranking we're the damper is. it's in the middle about 18" long running vertical. should he have left some space for the damper to expand. the hotter the fire the wider the crack gets. if that's the problem I'll cut the damper out and put one up top what's your thoughts
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Rob Davies
1/5/2021 10:57:42 am
Hi there,
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Ronnie Rowland Jr
1/9/2021 07:28:05 pm
3rd gen mason., I'm from a long line/family of Mason's, im having to retire at 43yrs of age with 30yrs experience due to rheumatoid arthritis, herniated disc,etc,etc,lol. One of many important features of a well constructed fireplace that was handed down to me as far as the displacement of heat starts with the dimension of the firebox that determines the size of the fly, but I was taught that heat rises ,cold air sinks. To always lay the back of the firebox straight up a pre determined distance before finally laying the back of firebox outwards at an angle toward the front. This allows not all but some of the upward flowing heat that usually goes up and out the flu to be bumped out the firebox into the dwelling. To much of an angle and you will get smoke with the heat as well. Not enough angle or no angle and the only thing you will have hurt is the fireplaces efficiency and maybe ones ego if I see it,lol.Of course other factors apply but I'm not about to get into all the scenarios.
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Darrell
1/9/2022 12:32:05 pm
Great article! Thank you. How often do you have to replace the flue leading up to chimney? I have clinker brick that meanders slightly to the top of the roof. There is no liner, just clinker brick all the way up. If it is converted to a Rumford design, would the chimney need to be relined? Thank you.
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I like that you talked about how bricks would have lots of options while being fresh stones that people would love. I would probably choose that kind of material for the fireplace and the walls of our home because of that. So I should look for masonry services instead when that part of the house needs to be renovated next year.
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Kathy Frazier
10/22/2022 05:07:31 pm
Hello... I want to build a Rumford style fireplace in my "under construction" house in Mexico. Can I order a top mounted damper? A friend will bring it down.
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Hola Kathy,
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12/5/2022 09:04:06 pm
The secret to having a warm, cozy fireplace is not complicated. All it takes is regular maintenance and care. Make sure you clean your chimney often, use only dry wood, and keep an eye on the damper. With these simple steps, you can stay warm and comfortable for many winters to come. Don’t let winter catch you unprepared – be proactive in maintaining your fireplace!
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